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Smell Gas Near the Stove? Do These Things, in This Order

If you smell rotten eggs in your kitchen, shut off any burner knobs, get everyone out of the room, and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside. Then call us for the appliance. That's the whole order of operations, and most of it takes seconds. Gas smells scare people, and they should. Read the next section before you touch anything else in that room.

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Do these things first, in this order

1. Stop and sniff. Rotten eggs or sulfur means gas. 2. Turn off any burner knobs that are on. 3. Open windows and the back door if they're within a step or two. 4. Get everyone out of the room, pets included. 5. If the smell is strong, keep walking, out the front door and onto the sidewalk. 6. From outside, call your gas utility's emergency line. That call is free and they come out day or night. 7. Once the utility says the house is clear, call us for the appliance itself. Don't stop to pack. Don't finish the phone call you were on.

What not to do

No light switches. Flipping one makes a tiny spark, and a spark is the one thing you're avoiding. Same with the ceiling fan, the range hood, the garage door opener. Leave them however they are. No phone calls inside the house if the smell is strong. Step outside first. No relighting the pilot. No candles, no matches, no lighter to test where it's coming from. Skip the vacuum and the toaster. The coffee maker too. And don't open the oven door to look. If gas has pooled inside, you don't want it moving into the room.

When to leave and when to shut things off

Leave if the smell is strong, if you feel dizzy or headachy, or if you hear a hiss near the stove. Leave if anyone in the house is having trouble breathing. Get to the sidewalk and stay there. A faint whiff right after you blow out a burner is a different thing. Gas escapes for a second, then clears. If it fades in a minute with a window open, you're probably fine. Only shut off the gas at the meter if you know exactly where the valve is and can reach it from outside. Otherwise leave it to the utility. Never crawl behind the range to reach a shutoff.

Utility first, then us

These are two different jobs. The gas utility handles the supply: the meter, the line into your house, and confirming the air is safe. They shut things down and tag the appliance. They do not repair your range. We handle the appliance. Bad igniter, worn gas valve, a burner orifice clogged with grease or salt-air corrosion, a loose connection at the back of the range. That's our side of the line. So the utility comes first, always. Then reach us. Tell us if the unit was tagged and what the tech said. It saves time on the visit.

After the visit, what we check and when we come

On the call we look at the igniter, the safety valve, burner ports, and the flex connector at the appliance. We test for leaks at any fitting we work on. We check flame color too. Steady blue is what you want. Lazy yellow means it needs adjustment. On Long Island we see two things a lot. Salt in the air pits metal fittings and burner caps. Hard water scale builds on the range top and works its way into the burner ports. Most homeowners here are on a train schedule, so we book evenings and Saturdays. Ask when you call us.

Smell Gas Near the Stove? Do These Things, in This Order — fast answers

Natural gas has no smell, so what am I smelling?

Utilities add a chemical called mercaptan on purpose. It smells like rotten eggs or sulfur so a leak gets noticed. If you smell that, treat it as real gas, even when it's faint.

Can I use my stove until the repair visit?

No. Keep the burners and the oven off. If the utility tagged the unit, leave the tag alone. Use the microwave or a countertop plate until someone has looked at it.

The smell only happens when the oven first lights. Is that normal?

A short gas whiff before ignition can be normal, but it should stop the second the flame catches. If it lingers, or the oven takes several tries to light, the igniter is likely weak. Call us.

How it works

  1. Step 1

    Tell us what it's doing

    Describe the noise, the leak, or the error code on the panel. Brand and rough age help too. We use that to bring likely parts on the first trip instead of guessing in your kitchen.

  2. Step 2

    Pick a window that works

    Plenty of our neighbors leave before sunrise and get home after six. We schedule around trains and traffic, later slots included, so nobody burns a vacation day waiting on a repair van.

  3. Step 3

    Diagnose, then repair

    Our technician tests the machine, finds the failed part, and explains what's wrong in plain words. You approve the work before anything gets replaced. Most repairs finish during that same visit.

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Why homeowners call us

  • Salt air is factored inCoastal humidity eats at terminals, brackets, and control boards. We look for corrosion behind the panel, not just the obvious broken part. Cleaned and protected connections help a repair hold up through another damp winter.
  • Hard water knowledgeScale clogs dishwasher spray arms, coats heating elements, and stiffens water valves. If your dishes come out gritty or the washer fills slowly, mineral buildup is often behind it. We check for it every time.
  • Wide service areaHomeowners across six Northeastern states call us for laundry, kitchen, and cooling work: refrigerators, freezers, washers, dryers, dishwashers, ovens, ranges, and cooktops. One number to call, whichever appliance quit on you.
  • Straight talk on old unitsSometimes a repair makes clear sense. Sometimes the machine is worn past the point of value, and we say so. You get an honest read on the condition before you decide to fix or replace.
  • All major brands, gas & electricOne independent crew for Whirlpool, Samsung, GE, LG, Maytag, Bosch and more.
  • Straight answersIf replacing beats repairing, you hear it from us first.

About this guide

Applies toAll major brands
Safe checksYes
PricingWritten quote
Open7 days

If the safe checks didn't fix it, the fault is real

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